Textiles

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When I taught at Fiber College in September, 2011, held at Oceanfront Campground in Searsport, Maine on Penobscot Bay, I was totally thrilled to meet the author of a book I bought many years ago (Hard Crochet by Mark Dittrick, 1978).  I made several of the projects in his book, including a hat just like the one in his hand.  I doubt I would be able to make them now as the state of my hands is less than ideal.  He was a most charming author!

Mark Dittrick, Author of Hard Crochet

When his book came out, there wasn't the array of different crochet hooks that are available today.

The Book Hard Crochet

His instructions included how to transform your crochet hook into a tool more easily gripped for the high tension needed to do this technique.  This is what he suggested the reader should make to work Hard Crochet:   Use masking tape to thicken the hook handle, then cover it with cloth and sew it to make a more durable cover. It was a vey fun technique and I made a lot of things from his book, none of which I have now, sadly.  Mark's book is out of print and sells on Amazon for $42 now.  

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I took a three-legged flight up to Anchorage on Wednesday, May 23 and arrived hungry and tired but glad to be in one piece.  I was amazed by the taxidermy in the airport.  Although I would rather see these creatures alive, this was an opportunity to look at them up close.

Polar Bears

Albino Beaver

                 

Dall Sheep

Wolf

                   

Grizzly Bear

Everyone in our Craft Cruises knitting group stayed at the Westmark Hotel which is right in the downtown area.  I headed to a pub for dinner, then hit the hay. Jane, in our group, had purchased this incredible basket made entirely of baleen by a native Alaskan artist.               The next morning, still in jet lag, I met the group in the lobby at 8:15 to board a bus to go to the Musk Ox Farm in Palmer.   I thought I would nap along the way, but the driver was too interesting with her tour-guide information and the scenery was spectacular.  

In the coach

Scenery along the way

                   

We arrive at the farm

The enclosures for the musk oxen

The Palmer farm was established in the 1930s and its mission is... “Dedicated to the domestication of the musk ox and to the promotion of qiviut production as a gentle and sustainable agricultural practice in the far north.”     The Kelloggs of cereal fame helped financially to establish the farm, as evidence by the name on the barn.

The Barn

I learned so much about musk oxen that day!  (I will attempt to convey everything I heard, hoping that I don’t have any facts wrong.)  Efforts to domesticate the musk ox have had bumps and starts but there are now a handful of successful farms around the world, notably Norway, Alaska, Montana, and Canada. (Vermont was actually a site for awhile!)  The farm in Palmer is the only one focusing solely on qiviut production while the one in Fairbanks has a scientific research approach. Apparently, musk ox digestion is extremely efficient owing to a little microbe in the stomach, which can digest just about anything.  This is how the musk ox can survive in the harsh and empty Tundra.  The Fairbanks group is studying this microbe for applications in energy production!  This microbe is so skilled at digesting everything taken in by the musk ox that the manure is useless for fertilizing crops–no nutritive value is left!  (This is the same reason it doesn’t smell.  There’s a plus!)   Birthin’ Them Babies Each year at Palmer the new batch of babies is named according to a theme, like state capitals, herbs and spices, etc.  I think we were told that three years ago they had 8 babies, 12 last year and 15 this year, which is great as 16 females were bred.  They used 4 bulls this year and gave each a harem of 4 females.  Twinning is unusual but there was a set of twins born in the Fairbanks center recently.  The females are bred at around 3 to 4 years of age, depending on their weight. Mother musk oxen produce about 1 cup of milk a day for their babies.  The young woman working at the farm giving us the the tour  told us that it is so thick and full of fat that if you had a cup of it and put a spoon in it and turned it upside down it would not drip out!  The babies gain about two pounds a day on that milk! In the wild, the bulls vie for the honor of  breeding the harem by going through a ritual.  They face each other, shake their heads and stamp their feet.  Then they start backing up away from each other until they are about 100 yards apart.  Then they run full speed (up to 35 miles an hour) and butt each other in the head, making a sound that can be heard a mile away. The resulting impact is 70 miles per hour! I saw a skeleton at the center that demonstrated how the spine is reinforced so that it can withstand that impact.  The vertebra were longer (creating the hump behind the head) and thicker there. The musk ox is very protective of its young. When threatened, the herd will form a circle with the babies inside.  The adults all face outward with their horns lowered to fight off predators.  This is very effective for dealing with wolves… humans, not so much.  In fact this very behavior has been the downfall of the musk ox, because the defensive circle made them easy prey for hunters with guns.  They were driven to the point of extinction. Other Facts The musk oxen can be quite playful so balls were supplied…500 pound iron balls!  However, when the animals began rolling the balls up the hill and letting them roll down to crash and destroy the fencing, those balls were removed.  I was so amazed that they could move those balls!  This one is about three feet high.

The 500 lb. steel ball

The shaggy coat of the musk ox is layered with thick coarse guard hairs, perfect for shedding rain and protection from the elements.   The soft undercoat of qiviut  is what keeps the animals warm in minus 80 degree weather.  I learned that you can buy qiviuk, the undercoat harvested from a dead musk ox, or qiviut, combed from a live animal.  The larger bulls will produce 6 to 8 pounds of the fluff per year.  The animals are fed into a chute so that they can be combed, which takes many hours.  Usually, the qiviut is full of vegetable matter and guard hairs and takes careful cleaning, which drives up the price considerably.  The more the qiviut is worn and washed, the more it blooms, becoming more fuzzy and cozy, due to the air being trapped by the fibers.  One shop owner said  that the yarn does not full, but I personally wouldn’t want to test that! I saw a range of prices in the few places I have visited so far. At one shop, two ounce skeins of 2-ply yarn (over 400 yards), natural or dyed sold for $220.  At another shop I saw it going for a bit less.  At the Palmer farm, all the fiber is sent to Oomingmak, the native Alaskan cooperative, to be cleaned, spun, and knitted into scarves and hats.  There is a raffle going on right now.  For $10 / ticket you get a 1 in 800 chance to win one of 5 qiviut items, the grand prize being a lace afghan!  I am sorry I didn’t take a photo of it.  The money raised will help to provide winter food for the animals.  (Contact info below.) Here is a wonderful bit of footage I got of the girls and their babies... Musk Ox Farm And some lovely examples of qiviut lace knitting.  These are traditional patterns from different areas among the native Alaskans.

Examples of traditional lace patterns in qiviut

You can adopt a Palmer musk ox for $100 and receive an ounce of qiviut fiber, with the added bonus of being able to buy two more ounces at $75/ounce.  You can contact the farm many ways: Phone:  907-745-4151 Fax:  907-746-4831 Email: info@muskoxfarm.org Mail: The Musk Ox Farm P.O. Box 587 Palmer, AK, 99645 It was such a worthwhile day, and a highlight of the trip so far.

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Time travel back with me about 17 years ago.  I am teaching at a TKGA conference and I grab a few minutes to go down into the market.  I head for Yo's Needlework Shop (sadly no longer in business) because she has those fabulous Japanese knitting books.  I can't read Japanese but the pictures are so great who needs to?  Yo is very persuasive and talks me into a book that uses a new kind of needle, a crochet hook with a shoestring through it.  The book and needle are shipped to me.  I look at it for a moment, put it on the bookshelf, and forget about it.  I am too busy knitting. Fast forward to VK Live in NYC this past January.  I have just come out of the market and am waiting for an up elevator.  A long time.  Fortunately.  Because there is a lovely young Japanese woman waiting for a down elevator. She is wearing a soft grey mohair dress of indescribable beauty.  It looks knitted, or crocheted, but not really.  In fact I can't quite figure it out.  She tells me that it is a Japanese technique where you knit up and you knit down.  In other words, in opposite directions.  I am fascinated and my stupid elevator decides to arrive at that moment.  Can you believe I got on it? Now I am haunted.  I write to a Japanese knitting friend of mine and ask her about it.  She asks about the young woman and asks if the dress she was wearing is grey mohair.... It turns out my friend Mari knows Izumi, the young woman I saw at the elevator, and gave me her web address.  I tried to email her from her blog, not sure if I was clicking on the right button (in Japanese) and she graciously emailed me back and even suggested some Japanese books on the subject: Japan Amazon- basic books Japan Amazon- more advanced book Izumi said, "The stitches you saw on my mohair dress, is not on any of those books because that was created by my Ipponbari teacher pretty recently.  With this needle you can combine stitches of knitting, crochetting (Tunisian as well) and other unique stitches, so we are exploring more and more possiblity of new stitches right now. I'd love that someday Ipponbari books will be published in English though." Here is a photo of the fabric of the mohair dress. Here is Izumi's blog of her past projects. What a variety of knitting techniques: mitered squares, gloves, lace, you name it!  Here is a blog about it from Rhonda, an American, where this technique is called "Knooking".  She has a 15 page PDF download on her Etsy shop that will get you started. There is even a Ravelry group devoted to Knooking.  Who knew? I have started a little project, a cotton bag, from a pattern in some of the papers included with my book I received so long ago.  I will post more photos as I progress so you can check back!

Bag made by Ipponbari

You can see two shoe strings in the "knooked" fabric.  I am about to take out the light pink one, having just finished a round with the dark pink one.  I have worked garter stitch, columns of purls and knits, and cables.  It's time for the beads.  Don't look TOO closely, there are mistakes.  Now I am off to Stitches.  More later!

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My dear friend Coni came back just before Christmas from traveling for eight weeks in India and Nepal.  I wanted to show you all the exquisite textiles she brought back with her, including some socks she bought for me!  The socks were knitted from the cuff to toe.  There is a heel flap and a turned heel, and the toe is decreased down to a point.  They are pretty comfortable! But the odd thing is that the patterning of the foot only occurs on the top of the foot.  Every time the color of yarn was changed, knots were made at the side of the foot and the yarn tails were trimmed to 1/2".Now maybe this makes sense in that the patterning would not be seen on the bottom of the foot, and less yarn is used.  But from a practical standpoint, I would want more yarns on the bottom of the foot for better wear and longevity of the sock.  It's an interesting juxtaposition of viewpoints: producer vs. consumer.

Socks from Nepal-view of soles, inside-out and right-side out

 

Socks from Nepal-top of foot, inside-out and right-side out

I will be more careful with these socks. I want them to last a long time.  So I won't be running around in them stocking-footed.  They are warm and cozy and bright.  I love them!

Pashmina

The textiles Coni bought are exquisite, beginning with this diaphanous Pashmina scarf:

A brown cloud of incredible softness!

It is the softest fabric I have ever felt.  Just luscious!  The most amazing thing about this piece is that it is woven in singles in what looks to be a collapse weave, but little paisleys are woven in for texture.  They are so subtle, they are barely noticeable.

Close up of the Pashmina, with Paisley in lower front

From Wickipedia.... The fibre is also known as pashm or pashmina for its use in the handmade shawls of Himalayas.[4] The woollen shawls made from wool in Kashmir find written mention in Indian texts between 3rd century BC and the 11th century AD.[5] However, the founder of the cashmere wool industry is traditionally held to be the 15th century ruler of Kashmir, Zayn-ul-Abidin, who introduced weavers from Central Asia.[5]
 
Pashmina goats, Ladakh
Cashmere shawls have been manufactured in Nepal and Kashmir for thousands of years. The test for a quality pashmina is warmth and feel. Pashmina and Cashmere are derived from same mountain goats. One distinct difference between Pashmina and Cashmere is the micron size. Pashmina fibers are finer and thinner than cashmere fiber, therefore, it is ideal for making light weight apparel like fine scarves. However, these days the word PASHMINA has been used too liberally and any scarves made from natural or synthetic fiber are sold as Pashmina creating confusion in the market. Pashmina from Nepal are the best in quality because of the conditions the mountain goats have adapted over centuries. The high Himalayas of Nepal has harsh, cold climate and in order to survive that the mountain goats have developed exceptionally warm and light fiber which might be slightly coarser than cashmere fibers obtained from lower region goats, but it is much warmer.  To distinguish Nepalese Pashmina, the Nepal Pashmina Industries Association has registered a Trademark around the world, called "Changra Pashmina". Coni said that the fibers used for Pashmina are taken from the neck underneath and under the front legs (arm pits?) of the goats, because these are the areas of the finest, thinnest fibers.  The goats are shorn once a year.  Her piece came from Kashmir but she bought it in Darjeeling.

Khādī Cloth

Handspun, handwoven Khadi Cloth

I love this cloth. Coni bought this in Varanasi.  It represents so much suffering and emancipation for India (see below). From Wikipedia....
The term khādī means cotton. khādī is Indian handspun and hand-woven cloth. The raw materials may be cottonsilk, or wool, which are spun into threads on a spinning wheel called a charkha. It is a versatile fabric, cool in the summer and warm in the winter. However, being a cruder form of material, it wrinkles much faster than other preparations of cotton. In order to improve the look, khādī is often starched to have a stiffer shape. It is widely accepted in fashion circles.[1][2] Khadi is not just a cloth, it is a whole movement started by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. The Khadi movement aimed at boycotting foreign goods and promoting Indian goods, thereby improving India's economy. Mahatma Gandhi began promoting the spinning of khādī for rural self-employment and self-reliance (instead of using cloth manufactured industrially in Britain) in 1920s India thus making khadi an integral part and icon of the Swadeshi movement. The freedom struggle revolved around the use of khādī fabrics and the dumping of foreign-made clothes. When some people complained about the costliness of khadi to Mahatma Gandhi, he started wearing only loincloth. Thus it symbolized the political ideas and independence itself, and to this day most politicians in India are seen only in khādī clothing. The flag of India is only allowed to be made from this material, although in practice many flag manufacturers, especially those outside of India, ignore this rule.

Silk

Also in Varanasi, Coni bought this 100% silk scarf and a little purse from Kathmandu.  The photos don't do them justice.

Silk Scarf with Paisleys

Silk purse- sold as a cell phone cover

Embroidery on Pashmina

This is the stellar piece, bought in Darjeeling.  Coni was told that a "true" pashmina is embroidered.  At first I thought I was looking at a printed fabric. This shawl was handwoven in a twill, and then embroidered by a man from Kashmir who took seven, yes, SEVEN, years to complete it.  That just boggles my mind.  The love and care he used to create this masterpiece is so very evident.

 

Part of the spectacular embroidery on this Pashmina

Paisley Detail

A Cotton Piece in What Technique?

Here is an interesting piece.  I am not sure how it is made.  Is it Tunisian Crochet?  Is it somehow knitted?  The fringes look like I-cord.  It is a local tradition in Veranasi.

 

Darjeeling Scarf

Felted Slippers

And last is this sweet pair of slippers Coni bought in Kathmandu, Nepal.

Felted Slippers

I hope you all enjoyed this foray into Indian textiles!

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