My dear friend Coni came back just before Christmas from traveling for eight weeks in India and Nepal. I wanted to show you all the exquisite textiles she brought back with her, including some socks she bought for me! The socks were knitted from the cuff to toe. There is a heel flap and a turned heel, and the toe is decreased down to a point. They are pretty comfortable!
But the odd thing is that the patterning of the foot only occurs on the top of the foot. Every time the color of yarn was changed, knots were made at the side of the foot and the yarn tails were trimmed to 1/2″.Now maybe this makes sense in that the patterning would not be seen on the bottom of the foot, and less yarn is used. But from a practical standpoint, I would want more yarns on the bottom of the foot for better wear and longevity of the sock. It’s an interesting juxtaposition of viewpoints: producer vs. consumer.
Socks from Nepal-view of soles, inside-out and right-side out
Socks from Nepal-top of foot, inside-out and right-side out
I will be more careful with these socks. I want them to last a long time. So I won’t be running around in them stocking-footed. They are warm and cozy and bright. I love them!
Pashmina
The textiles Coni bought are exquisite, beginning with this diaphanous Pashmina scarf:
A brown cloud of incredible softness!
It is the softest fabric I have ever felt. Just luscious! The most amazing thing about this piece is that it is woven in singles in what looks to be a collapse weave, but little paisleys are woven in for texture. They are so subtle, they are barely noticeable.
Close up of the Pashmina, with Paisley in lower front
From Wickipedia….
The fibre is also known as pashm or pashmina for its use in the handmade shawls of Himalayas.[4] The woollen shawls made from wool in Kashmir find written mention in Indian texts between 3rd century BC and the 11th century AD.[5] However, the founder of the cashmere wool industry is traditionally held to be the 15th century ruler of Kashmir, Zayn-ul-Abidin, who introduced weavers from Central Asia.[5]
Cashmere shawls have been manufactured in Nepal and Kashmir for thousands of years. The test for a quality pashmina is warmth and feel. Pashmina and Cashmere are derived from same mountain goats. One distinct difference between Pashmina and Cashmere is the micron size. Pashmina fibers are finer and thinner than cashmere fiber, therefore, it is ideal for making light weight apparel like fine scarves. However, these days the word PASHMINA has been used too liberally and any scarves made from natural or synthetic fiber are sold as Pashmina creating confusion in the market.
Pashmina from Nepal are the best in quality because of the conditions the mountain goats have adapted over centuries. The high Himalayas of Nepal has harsh, cold climate and in order to survive that the mountain goats have developed exceptionally warm and light fiber which might be slightly coarser than cashmere fibers obtained from lower region goats, but it is much warmer. To distinguish Nepalese Pashmina, the Nepal Pashmina Industries Association has registered a Trademark around the world, called “Changra Pashmina“.
Coni said that the fibers used for Pashmina are taken from the neck underneath and under the front legs (arm pits?) of the goats, because these are the areas of the finest, thinnest fibers. The goats are shorn once a year. Her piece came from Kashmir but she bought it in Darjeeling.
Khādī Cloth
Handspun, handwoven Khadi Cloth
I love this cloth. Coni bought this in Varanasi. It represents so much suffering and emancipation for India (see below).
From Wikipedia….
The term khādī means cotton. khādī is Indian handspun and hand-woven cloth. The raw materials may be cotton, silk, or wool, which are spun into threads on a spinning wheel called a charkha. It is a versatile fabric, cool in the summer and warm in the winter. However, being a cruder form of material, it wrinkles much faster than other preparations of cotton. In order to improve the look, khādī is often starched to have a stiffer shape. It is widely accepted in fashion circles.[1][2]
Khadi is not just a cloth, it is a whole movement started by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. The Khadi movement aimed at boycotting foreign goods and promoting Indian goods, thereby improving India’s economy. Mahatma Gandhi began promoting the spinning of khādī for rural self-employment and self-reliance (instead of using cloth manufactured industrially in Britain) in 1920s India thus making khadi an integral part and icon of the Swadeshi movement. The freedom struggle revolved around the use of khādī fabrics and the dumping of foreign-made clothes. When some people complained about the costliness of khadi to Mahatma Gandhi, he started wearing only loincloth. Thus it symbolized the political ideas and independence itself, and to this day most politicians in India are seen only in khādī clothing. The flag of India is only allowed to be made from this material, although in practice many flag manufacturers, especially those outside of India, ignore this rule.
Silk
Also in Varanasi, Coni bought this 100% silk scarf and a little purse from Kathmandu. The photos don’t do them justice.
Silk Scarf with Paisleys
Silk purse- sold as a cell phone cover
Embroidery on Pashmina
This is the stellar piece, bought in Darjeeling. Coni was told that a “true” pashmina is embroidered. At first I thought I was looking at a printed fabric. This shawl was handwoven in a twill, and then embroidered by a man from Kashmir who took seven, yes, SEVEN, years to complete it. That just boggles my mind. The love and care he used to create this masterpiece is so very evident.
Part of the spectacular embroidery on this Pashmina
Paisley Detail
A Cotton Piece in What Technique?
Here is an interesting piece. I am not sure how it is made. Is it Tunisian Crochet? Is it somehow knitted? The fringes look like I-cord. It is a local tradition in Veranasi.
Darjeeling Scarf
Felted Slippers
And last is this sweet pair of slippers Coni bought in Kathmandu, Nepal.
Felted Slippers
I hope you all enjoyed this foray into Indian textiles!
